Roberto's Italian (Second
Visit) Youngstown, Ohio Date of Visit: 03/12/16 http://www.robertosyoungstown.com/ Click Here for Original Visit Going to the symphony, returning to Roberto’s on the way. The place is tightly packed wall-to-wall, symphony good for Roberto’s. Instead of the unique rolls we were delivered warm and seasoned slices of bread and a bowl of strongly seasoned oil for dipping. Lots of oil, stiff with garlic as the bowl was deep. The small, fresh salad on teeny plates were served with rich dressings and arrived before the appetizer, which realistically, was the sole serious disappointment. |
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Calamari. Not an easy thing to get right, but our server recommended it, said it was very popular. I’ve never had calamari in an Italian joint completely plastered with a thick and sticky sweet and sour sauce. Instead of a little cup of red gravy for dipping, there was so much sweet sauce it disguised the flavor and obliterated any crisp the breading may have had. Didn’t matter much, cause the squid itself was chewier than rubber bands. Bummer top to bottom. |
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The entrees were much better. They still have a very clean and
straightforward sauce (would be great with tender calamari).
The pastas (cavatelli and spaghetti) are all done exceptionally well. I had the chicken parm this time around and it is tender and juicy, has a nice crisp interior intact beneath a blanket of cheese and sauce. The meatball in the cavs was the same as the previous stop, soft and meaty without much to distinguish it. Mother dear had the scallops, which were wonderfully done, a crispy brown sear, tender translucent center, and a seasoning almost as aggressive as the sweet and sour sauce but this one worked. Right up to the line of peppery/salty/herby but without blowing out the scallop itself.
All in all a great stop before a nice night of culture, just skip
the calamari. |
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Change in Ranking | |||||
Original Score | Which Way? | New Score | Why For? | ||
C+ | = | C+ | The Sauce Remains The Same | ||
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We walked up to the small front of the restaurant and it looks dark and fancy-dancy inside. We in our ratty jeans and with a smaller diner that might not be appreciated at some restaurants. The place remains very dark once you step through the door. The servers are all clad in black and sort of fade into the corners of the very small but swanky space. The first clue they have not been open that long was that no one had any idea if they had booster seats or high chairs. I was worried maybe they were interested in discouraging families from eating there, not that I cared, but it turns out they had the equipment, a special menu and were happy to see us.
Associated with their happiness to see
us was my worry that only one other table was occupied by a single
diner. To their credit the service was fine and continued to be as
the place quickly filled up…in downtown Youngstown…at night…a full
restaurant…whoda thunk? Regardless they took good care of all four
of us. Just plain smart. |
Different and Functional Biscuit/Rolls and Killer Garlic Oil |
Pretty Standard Salad |
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Catering From the Kids Menu, Went Over Well |
Clean Sauce, Excellent Pasta and a Pretty Good Meatball |
The menu is Italian without exception, like the sign says, Roberto’s Italian Ristorante, Eat the Boot. Bread came to the table and in a unique wrinkle, instead of sliced Italian from the kitchen or a local bakery, they delivered what appeared to be biscuits in a lined colander along with a small plate of oil. The biscuits were not flaky in the southern style but doughy and full of Italian herbs and spices. The olive oil was just loaded with enough pepper, pepper flakes and garlic to take down a cadre of Nosferatu.
We ordered chicken parmesan, cavatelli with a meatball, chicken
strips with fries and Fiocchi. The chicken strips arrived hot so it
took a while before they were consumed but once they left the red
zone they were dismantled and dispersed with some vigor. Way to do
the kids right! The chicken parmesan looked great, fresh and juicy
with a seasoned breading, slab of mozzarella and pool of sauce. The
sauce also coated the side of cavatelli and the cavs and meatball in
the other bowl. The sauce at Roberto’s is smooth and clean with a
sharp acidic tang. It’s not my favorite gravy in town but it is
unique and I could see myself going back for another round. The
cavatelli were really well done, tender but resistant and took a
liking to the sauce for a nice combination. |
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The Chicken Parmesan Looked Great |
And Came With It's Own Load of Cavatelli |
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Cheesecake Needed Something |
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I have never seen nor tried Fiocchi before, so it was a given. The
description sounded pretty good. Little pasta beggars purses filled
with pear and four cheeses. Even the cheese combination sounded
unique to me. A mildly tangy and sour Robiola, the Parmesanesqe but
grainy Grana Padano, a stinky but mild Taleggio and the twice cooked
and young Ricotta are all in the little bags. The pear is
definitively sweet and but balanced against the succulent weight of
the cheese mixture. The large bowl is loaded with a pile of these
bite sized satchels which are swimming in the seasoned butter in
which they were sautéed. I would get them again but not often…I am a
red sauce and noodle kinda guy at heart, but they were interesting
and tasty.
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Dream Bomba Had All It Needed |
Inside and Out |
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We were going to take desserts for a later time but since we had
settled on one that was frozen we stayed table side and left with
distended bellies. The less successful dessert we ordered was a
Ricotta cheesecake which was effused with a bit of orange and topped
with a berry sauce. A hint more orange or sweet would have made for
a better dessert. I expected the Ricotta version to be less sweet
than a cream cheese or it might have been the sweetness or intensity
of the sauce on top which left the bulk of the dessert bland and
flat. A distinctive step up was the Dream Bomba. A small center of
caramel was ensconced in a peanut butter gelato and the whole sphere
was then encased in milk chocolate. Way rich, way desserty, worth
the stuffed feeling. Roberto’s offers another distinct Italian voice
in the Youngstown area with friendly service and some new (to me at
least) twists. I hope they do well downtown, who knows what else may
follow. Definitely worth a visit. |
Ratings | |||||||
Food |
Service |
Ambiance |
What's Best |
What's Worst |
Overall |
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C+ | B | C | B+ | D+ | C+ | ||
Unique But Not Knockout | New Twists | Cheese Cake |